Two companies dominate the Oakmoss world today: LMR, specialising in the finest qualities of IFRA compliant Oakmoss, and Payan Bertrand which wears the crown of the classic unadulterated green oakmoss products. While other suppliers have variations on the so-called “full fat” green oakmoss, only Payan Bertrand comes close to the quality used before the IFRA standards came in to force. If you want the Oakmoss revered by Coty, the Oakmoss used by Ernest Beaux and Jean Carles: you have one choice: Payan Bertrand.

This is classic green oakmoss absolute sold pure (as a solid material) or in liquid form diluted by Fraterworks to 50% in natural odourless triethyl citrate.

When Francois Coty created the great feminine masterpiece Chypre, there was only one oakmoss he would accept: pure and natural green Yugoslavian oakmoss. He adored it so much that he used a whopping 8% in that famous fragrance. Over the forthcoming decades all other perfumers used the same product - from Ernest Beaux with No 5 for Chanel, all the way up to the 21st century when tragically pure and natural oakmoss was restricted by IFRA and only permitted if it were chemically altered to remove atranol.

Most suppliers today only stock the chemically altered brown IFRA compliant oakmoss which lacks a lot of the beauty of this product. But not all... we are absolutely thrilled to be able to offer pure and natural Yugoslavian green oakmoss absolute. This is not IFRA compliant. Despite that, it still finds many uses and is still permitted in numerous regions of the world. Needless to say, this incredibly rich and beautiful material is essential for recreating the classic scents of yesteryear.

We also offer an IFRA compliant oakmoss absolute (pure or at 50% dilution) from Laboratoire Monique Remy (LMR).

Origin: Nations of the former Yugoslavia
Part: Moss
Method of production: Solvent extraction in Grasse